Beach Bumming, Curry Eating & Blacklisting -in no particular order

With everything that has been happening the last few weeks I completely forgot to mention that the day finally came to head back to the Questura in Lucca, and pick up our Permesso di Soggiorno cards, which we applied for in the first 8 days when we arrived. That honestly seems like that was about 3 years ago, as so much has happened when in fact only 15 weeks have passed since I landed. Thankfully everything was approved, and we are now officially permitted to reside in Italy at least for 1 year before we have to renew it. We had our friend Tony “The Fixer” by our side as he waited for us at the immigration office making sure we were close to the front of the “line”. I use the term line very loosely, as there is no actual line or any rhyme or reason as to who goes in when. In reality it is a bit of a free for all but Tony was there keeping everyone in order and ensuring the people there before him went in first. When we finally dashed through the door and stood before the window we had to do one last fingerprint check, sign a document and voila we were finally handed our Permesso’s. I felt like Golum from Lord of the Rings finally holding “my precious” in my “still hot” hand!!

The Permesso now supersedes our visas, and means we can stay in Italy, longer than the average bear, with all the rights assigned to citizens. We get our health care cards and will be assigned a doctor and finally be in the system. This is a relief because being unwell in a strange land has been unsettling and at times expensive, that’s for sure, but I can honestly say my experiences with the medical staff so far have been lovely. The doctors, technicians, receptionists have been so pleasant, thorough and kind. My most recent scan this week of my stomach was done by the actual specialist as opposed to a technician like in Australia. As the cold gel was smeared across my distended belly, he told me what he was looking for, and what he was seeing as he went along. Between my Italian and his English I understood everything and he was just so lovely. Thankfully all is well, so that is such a relief. It is interesting here as the doctors and specialists tell you the results immediately, will give you the report, which you are free to read, and you are responsible for Whatsapp’ing it to your referring GP. In Australia any results are sent to your doctor without you ever seeing them, until if you’re lucky your doctors office tells you to come in to discuss, making for nerve racking anxiety when, or if you get the call.

As a side note, what I have found very strange the last few weeks is that I have managed to converse with doctors, lawyers, specialists and all kinds of professionals, yet my favourite Pizza place “Pizzeria Da Fabio” literally about 4 doors from my house never ever understand me when I order a pizza and always pass me on to some teenager who can speak English, which is great and all but I am truly perplexed. Maybe they speak a different dialect 4 doors down? I don’t know. It’s a mystery, but I will persist as their pizza is truly amazing.

Even though now September is in swing, Lucca is still absolutely heaving with tourists who enchanted by Lucca’s delights seem happily oblivious to the locals around them trying to get on with their day as they don’t look where they’re going, block the streets gazing up at something, and run around in the very hot midday sun, causing consternation to all and sundry. Nevertheless, the tourists keep all the locals very busy and in business, so I have been rather annoyed of late at Centro Lucchese shop owners and taxi drivers who are snarky towards tourists, or who mutter under their breath something rude about Americanos, and who suddenly double their fares for non locals, taking advantage of them. This is a very ugly practise and I am not sure if this is just a local Lucca thing or an Italy-wide thing. I truly hope not. I will need to consult my Italian oracle, Daniele my Italian teacher who is from Livorno and reckons the joke about Lucchese people is that they are all born with short arms and therefore unable to reach their pockets…probably some ancient rivalry between Livorno and Lucca no doubt and.. he is also a very cheeky monkey so I won’t pre-judge.

While I am not Lucchese, I am now a very new ‘local’, and I like most people do not appreciate snarky comments muttered under their breath. If anyone is rude to me or anyone else for that matter in a shop anywhere in the world I won’t ever set foot there again, no matter how good their products are, even if it’s a gelato shop! It therefore pains me to say that a gelateria which sits on the piazza where Giacomo Puccini’s statue is, and which I frequented often has been officially the first shop to be put on my blacklist, meaning I have banned myself from ever going there. One night I popped in to order a gelato, realised I didn't have my cash on me but had my bankcard and so wanted to pay with that like most people do. I am a regular in that shop. The woman’s face turned so sour, that a lemon would have been taken by surprise, and she huffed and puffed and muttered and carried on so much about it you would have thought I had asked her to donate a kidney! She was still giving me the stink eye as I went on my way past her shop window. Needless to say I have not set foot in there ever again and never will even if they are the last gelateria in town in some post apocalyptic world….(please don’t let that happen). They have lost a valuable customer considering my intense love of gelato, even though to be honest it was a bit mediocre, but handy when a gelato fix was desperately needed.

It is no wonder Italys economy is up the creek when shop owners get annoyed if you don’t pay with cash. Luckily I have discovered a wonderful gelateria in my hood called Cremeria Opera where the girl in there is always so nice and friendly and, she has even stopped for a chat with mum and I in the street. The gelato is absolutely divine and they have some vegan flavours too, and so they have now found new loyal customers and I will be sure to recommend them to everyone. On the whole though, I have met mostly lovely, kind, generous locals, the latest being Giacomino in my local bike shop who fixed up my bike lickety split and did not charge me ridiculous prices. So, be nice, shopkeepers, taxi drivers and anyone else providing a service. Your customers whether locals or Americanos or other stranieri help you put food on your tables, and no one likes being blatantly obviously taken advantage of.

The last few weeks in between unpacking and painting walls I have turned into a bit of a beach bum, well, I went twice in one week so yes, to me that qualifies as a beach bum, as I never ever seem to have enough hours in the day, so those days were special indeed and worthy of a name beach bum days. The nearest beach is in the town of Viareggio which sits on the Tyrennhian sea bordered by the Massa Carrara mountains making for the most spectacular view ever from a beach. I honestly am amazed every time I see it, and it changes completely with the weather, sometimes these massive clouds roll in and it briefly rains and then the sun comes out again and no matter the weather it is absolutely magnificent with an ever-changing scenery for a backdrop while in the waves.

Viareggio is so different to Lucca despite being only 20 minutes down the road with its gorgeous Liberty buildings along the seafront and the grid pattern of the narrow streets, which have a truly seaside vibe with colourful houses and trees, makes it easy not to get lost when looking for the train station or the bus station depending on which way you roll. Viareggio also boasts a massive Carnivale in February and the little red and white character in the pic is Burlamacca the symbol for the carnival. I just can’t resist sticking my head in those cutouts that you stick your head in, the technical term, I have just researched is Photo Stand-In, not “board cut out with a hole for your head thingamyjig.” which personally I think has quite a nice ring to it. ;-)

The beach is also a great place to shop if you’re so inclined, while reclined in your “lettino” as there are people coming by selling everything from amazing knock-off handbags, bed spreads, sunhats, bathers, toys and you can even have a massage, which I did as a treat for my achy feet. I am ordered by my friend Cristina A. to make sure I don’t miss the guy selling “bombolloni” these giant fluffy powdery donuts filled with Nutella, Crema, or Pistachio and to get her a pistachio one if she is down by the water when he comes. She is a little wisp of a girl but Mr. Bombolloni knows her as she always gets one when she is there….ah to be young. I still can’t quite get used to the fact that I have to pay so much to sit at the beach as you enter through one of the many Bagnos which line the sea front and pay for your lettino (sun bed) and ombrellone (umbrella), however I am getting more used to it as it is so convenient not having to lug half your house to the beach, you have access to toilets and a restaurant, changing boxes and little cafe if a caffe fix is needed, although I still wholeheartedly believe the beach belongs to everyone but what can you do.

One of the other superb things about Viareggio is - fanfare please - they have an Indian restaurant!!!! This is an absolutely rarity in these here parts and so Cristina and I go there any chance we can, in fact she even picked some up on her way from the train station as they were open for lunch and carried it down to the beach where I had gone earlier in the day with another friend Mia, and we had a feast while sitting under our umbrellone, my definition of paradise, eating curry on the beach! They are called The Little India Restaurant but sometimes also called the King of India restaurant, so that’s a bit confusing, but their food and smiling service does not disappoint, and take home is always ordered after a meal so we can have our Indan food fixes back in Lucca, where there is nothing of the sort. I am seriously addicted to their lemon rice.

The first time we went there with another friend Loreal, was to celebrate Cristina’s birthday and the 7 minute walk from the train station to be honest felt a bit like we were walking in a deserted Bronx-like hood as the light was fading and we laughed our heads off wondering where on earth Google maps was taking us. A man riding by on his bicycle seriously nearly fell off as he rubbernecked so hard seeing 3 fab chicks all just a bit dressed up walking along the road. The aroma as we walked in to the restaurant was amazing and we were jumping for joy just to eat something different. The train ride home that night was another adventure, firstly the train was about 30 minutes late and so we hung out on the platform at around 10pm at night in the extreme humidity when all the local young wildlife were out, hooning about on the platform being smart Alecs’. Finally we boarded and even though we made our way further up the platform to find a quiet carriage, we were joined by a gang of boys who although loud, were hilariously funny in their machismo. We laughed even harder when as the train was going through a long tunnel the lights suddenly went off and shrieks of “Che cazzo” were heard from these same tough guys. The train journey cemented Loreal’s mindset that she hates the train and will never be taking it again!! We had a great laugh hanging with our homeys in the hood and plans were already being made as to when we can go again for the drool-worthy Indian food.

So back in Lucca the work continues but progress is being made. I went out with the crew for Notte Bianca (White Night) and danced for the first time in years in Piazza San Michele as everyone celebrated summertime, and being out together again. I have almost finished painting my room, but need to find someone to paint the ceiling. The boxes are almost all cleared away, I continue to explore my little hood and I have just spent a lovely weekend in Rome with Cristina V, but more about that next time.